Our tour group of 24 was split into two, with each going to different rainforest lodges at Sakau on the Kinabatangan River. On the way we had a toilet stop at a service station, where sustaining chocolates and nuts were purchased by everyone. As our first introduction to the rainforest river, the crossing to the lodge lasted less than 10 minutes, our group being transported to the opposite bank of the river by two separate boats with the luggage arriving in a third.
First River Safari
After a quick turnaround, and boarding a boat for our first river cruise, we were speeding down river in search of the Borneo Pygmy Elephant. We learned that the Pygmy Elephant is simply a diminutive version of the Asian Elephant and not a separate species. In view of this they are now called Borneo Elephants. We also learned that any wildlife prefixed with ‘Borneo’ is unique to the island.
Our guide eventually found a single elephant which we had to march across a muddy paddock to see, away in the distance. Apart from that our only other sightings were Probiscis Monkeys and Long Tailed Macaques. However, when it started to rain we got soaked, despite wearing our capes – rain ran across the boat benches and down our necks. On the way back to the lodge it was almost dark, making the lightning storm ahead of us all the more dramatic.
Morning River Safari
K started to feel unwell and as a result did not eat much for dinner and hardly slept. She decided not to join the early morning river safari. We stopped for a while to watch a group of Long Tailed Macaques scavenging in some rubbish at the bank of the river. My only other sighting was a Stork Billed Kingfisher.
After breakfast at the lodge, we departed for an outing to the Gomantong Cave. K had opted to stay at the lodge, a good decision as the cave was not the most comfortable place, albeit very interesting.
Gomantong Cave
Gomantong Cave is famed for its edible birds’ nests. This vast cavern is home to millions of Swiftlets and bats, not to mention similar numbers of cockroaches that crawl up the walls next to the boardwalks, The floor of the cave is piled high with guano, hence the unpleasant smell that was difficult to get rid of after leaving.
Edible birds’ nests, made from the Swiftlet bird’s saliva, are believed to be highly nutritious and an expensive delicacy in the Southeast Asia region. There are two varieties, black and white, the latter being the most expensive. Harvesting the nests occurs before eggs are laid to avoid disrupting the breeding cycle (2 to 3 times per annum). It is extremely dangerous with workers climbing as high as 100m on rope ladders to collect the nests. Many locals have now re-created the precise environmental conditions in purpose built enclosures to farm birds’ nests, such a lucrative income that their return on investment is less than 12 months.
Third River Safari
With K joining our small group, the departure of our afternoon river safari was brought forward by one hour to 3 o’clock. This was especially fortuitous as we were treated to watching a herd of about 60 elephants munch their way along the opposite bank of the tributary where we had seen the single elephant earlier. It is estimated that there is only a 10% chance of tourists spotting these elusive animals, so we considered ourselves very fortunate (it turned out that the other group had not been so lucky). It was such an amazing experience to witness the slow progress of the adults, juveniles and babies going about their business while ignoring the numerous boats jostling for position on the opposite side to the creek.
After dinner we packed our bags ready for a morning departure. I had been dosing myself up with Panadol and Lemsip in an effort to stem the development of a cold – so far succeeding. K had come good and had started eating again.
Transfer to Kinabalu
Joined by the other 12 members of our group, we were faced with a long coach journey to our next destination, Kinabalu Pine Resort, on the way to Kota Kinabalu on the west coast. Our journey was interrupted with a visit to Kampung Luanti for a fish spa foot massage. These were not the usual small fish that nibble at your feet, some were as long as 30cm with more of a bite than a nibble.
Anyway, fun was had by everyone before stopping for lunch at the Sabah Tea Garden for lunch. At a high altitude, this location awarded us with some spectacular views across the mountain ranges.
By the time we arrived at the resort my cold had started to take hold. I hardly ate anything for dinner, went straight to bed and spent a sleepless night with a dry cough.
How I shaped up in the morning and about final few nights in Kota Kinabalu for this tour, will be the subject of the next instalment.