Our most recent outing was to Mungo National Park, located in New South Wales about 90 minutes North East of Mildura. This is a location I have been keen to visit for some time on account of its unique landscape.
Lake Hattah
Since the Park is about 6 hour drive from home, we decided to break the journey at Lake Hattah, a short distance south of Mildura.
The park offers a number of short and long walking tracks, none of which we had time to explore and enjoy. However, we managed to wander down to the edge of the lake where I was able to scope out a potential night sky photograph. In the dry grassy bed of the adjacent Little Lake Hattah there were a number of wild emus grazing which K spent some time photographing.
With clear cloudless skies, the temperature dropped significantly, compensated by being able to photograph the Milky Way over the lake. Unfortunately, I was not to be so lucky for the next three evenings.
Because the collection of firewood is prohibited, we carried an ample supply for our short 4 day break enabling us to stay warm and to cook our evening meal over a warming fire.
We were keen to spend as much time at Mungo as possible, so we left Lake Hattah by about 09:00 to arrive at our destination by lunchtime.
Mungo National Park
After the priority of lunch, we quickly set up the caravan before heading out to the park’s visitor centre, about 2 km from the campground over a very rough corrugated gravel road. After acquainting ourselves with information about the park we decided to take a walk along the 2.5 km Foreshore Walk.
This circular route took us through a wide range of vegetation including Malle and White Cyprus Pines, sand dunes covered in grasses and blue green salt bushes. These were clearly described on information boards at key stages of the walk, giving us a chance to stop and enjoy the scenery beyond.
The walk ended at the old shearing shed where the mystery of a roof at ground level was solved – this was a dis-used sunken water tank that collected precious water from the roof of the shed.
On returning to the campground, we followed the walking track to the Mungo Lookout. At this point I was both disappointed and astounded by the view.
All the photographs I had seen of the park portrayed a barren sandy lunar landscape of shaped vertical pinnacles, sharp ridges and shallow furrows. My disappointment lay in not seeing this from the lookout – all we saw was a thin bright line on the distant shore of the lake, commonly known as the Walls of China. However, the expanse of this dry lake, covering a vast area of 200 square kilometres, was quite staggering.
The lake is the site of the discovery of Mungo Man, at 42,000 years, the oldest human remains found in Australia and Mungo Woman who was cremated during the same time period. These remains were taken from the area for scientific examination and have only very recently been returned and re-buried in their original locations by the local indigenous peoples.
After the disappointment of the lookout, the next morning took us through the Mungo Lunettes (Walls of China), guided by a local indigenous elder with a vast amount of knowledge and experience of the land. This tour gave us the opportunity to learn much about the history of the park and to take photos of such a unique landscape. Apart from the chilling wind that blew across the flat base of the lake, I can highly recommend this tour, booked through the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service web site.
Our first stop in the afternoon was to explore Mungo Lodge. This provides a resort style of accommodation with cabins, camping and caravan sites. The central reception building incorporates a large dining/sitting room and a not very well stocked gift shop. Also on offer are scenic flights from the lodge private airstrip and twilight tours of the lunettes.
On returning to the caravan, we set off on the 1.2 km Grasslands Nature Trail, meandering through shrubs of bluebush and copper bush, woodlands of Belah, cypress pine, and mallee scrub. This walk also provided informative signs at various stages, but none of the local Wedge Tail Eagles of Whistling Kites put in an appearance.
And so ended our one full day at Mungo National Park. We had originally planned to wait until lunchtime to depart, but since we felt we had seen everything, we were packed up and away by 09:00.
Murray River National Park
As planned, we broke the journey home with a last minute booking at a campsite locate in the Lyrup Flats section of Murray River National Park [link to: https://www.parks.sa.gov.au/parks/murray-river-national-park/booking/73205], south west of Renmark. Not realising the extent of the Lyrup Flats camping area, our first entry into the area took us along some dried up muddy tacks that had clearly been underwater during the 2022 floods, but not to our booked site. After returning to the main road, the Sturt Highway, we found the correct access adjacent to the Lyrup Flat ferry and our spacious site that could accommodate a couple more caravans and tents.
We had a relaxing walk along to the ferry on which we took a return trip across the Murray before returning to light a fire and read our books until daylight disappeared.
Following the disappointment of cloudy skies at Mungo, I was hoping to photograph the night sky with the river in the foreground. As evening approached the clouds did likewise, concealing the stars and thwarting any chance of seeing the Milky Way. However, we had an enjoyable brief stay next to the river.
The road home
Our route home took us back through Sherlock where we had stopped for coffee on our way north. It never ceases to amaze me what some of these small regional townships have to offer. In this case it was a machinery orchestra comprising various pieces of machinery and metal components for hitting to provide a range of notes, some tuned some not.
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